Day 93 – July 5

A dirth of change the previous night meant that laundry duties moved to this morning. After that chore was completed a related but much more challenging chore awaited us, washing the beast. The cumulative collection of insect carcasses and dust from hundreds of kilometres of gravel roads had made the BRT somewhat unapproachable so this was a utilitarian rather than cosmetic exercise. In fact I had begun to become attached to the tough boy look of the biomass patina but the coating of dust that accumulated over the entire vehicle was starting to impact the intimacy of our vehicular relationship.

Safe to approach

There was a large bay car wash across the road from Hi Country RV Park so after a requisite grey water dump we headed over. Armed with a fist of loonies I began the assault which really was more of an exfoliation than a wash. After 10 minutes of blasting, brushing and rinsing the original colour of the beast began to reappear. In light of the roads yet undriven and bugs yet unsquashed still ahead of us I settled with approachable clean rather than huggable clean and by 10:45 we were headed in the general direction of Watson Lake.

Our goal was Liard Lake and its hot springs but considering the time devoured in the morning to ablutions, that seemed an unlikely target so our STC (subject to change) plan was drive until we didn’t want to drive any more and then start looking for accommodations. As it was a Friday in prime vacation time we were prepared for some challenges.

We made good time as we had driven over the same road on our way to Whitehorse and Alaska so there was little need to stop for photos. We stopped at Teslin for a coffee and then went to the rest stop just outside town to chip away a bit more at the Braeburn Lodge cinnamon bun.

It was further down the road that the wheels came off our schedule. As we crossed the Morley River bridge, which was noted in our Milepost guide as a good Grayling river, I thought it was worth checking out. As I walked to stream side I met a guy who was looking down into the water – not at the scenery, a dead giveaway for a fisherman. As we talked fish began to jump in the river and we both retired to our vehicles to break the news to our respective wives. Have I mentioned that I have a good wife?

Phil and his wife Lynn were from Vernon BC. Phil was a retired draftsman and an avid fly fisherman. We soon were both trying our hand at the river while Diane and Lynn commiserated about the life of a fishing widow. It wasn’t long before we were catching good sized fish, me from one side of the river and the other Phil from the opposite side. I was there for about 2 hours and had the best fun fishing I had had for weeks. Thus our schedule became STC.

Phil squared

Finally some fish

Based on our guides we knew that we had limited opportunities for campsites on the road ahead. Phil and Lynn had told us the Watson Lake campground was just a gravel parking lot so we stopped at Nugget City where we had had breakfast on our way to Whitehorse. Although not a great setting we were considering staying when a rude remark from the woman in the office put me back on the road. My money was not going into her pocket.

We decided to head towards Watson Lake regardless of the bad reviews, knowing that in the land of the midnight sun we could just keep on driving. As we pulled into Watson Lake we came across the Signpost Forest. Dating back to 1942 by a US Army soldier working on the Alaska Highway. There are hundreds of posts with a total of 72,000 signs of various descriptions attached varying from legitimate street and road signs to licence plates, homemade signs and other artifacts. We saw signs from Pugwash and a NS licence plate.

The Signpost Forets

Not far down the road was the Downtown RV Park which as promised was a gravel lot but as it was 7:00 and there was lots of space we opted to stay and take advantage of the full amenities. Supper was leftovers as we relaxed from our usual prep and cleanup chores.